Gozo is the second largest island of the Maltese archipelago. Greener and more fertile than its big sister, farming is the main enterprise, providing an abundance of milk, eggs, potatoes, tomatoes, melons, oranges and figs. They fish too, and their little fleet brings in a tasty and varied supply for the 30,000 population.
I like nothing better than to leisurely drive the narrow roads through stone-walled farming heartland and quaint sleepy villages, savouring the relaxed ambience and exquisite landscape. I only change direction when the road ends at the edge of the blue Mediterranean with its magnificent views from the cliff tops.
Gozo is an island of great religious piety, with every little village featuring a beautiful church that would adorn any large city. For a special spiritual uplifting I visit the famous ‘Ta Pinu Sanctuary’. This beautiful church set in picturesque farming countryside, now attracts pilgrims from all over the world, including Pope John, who came in 1990. They come to honour The Virgin Mary and pray fervently for cures and favours.
It all began in 1883 when two local villagers, Karmni Grima and Francesco Portelli heard a mystical voice calling from within the church as they walked by. They entered and prayed for Francesco’s desperately ill mother, who miraculously recovered. From then on the miracles multiplied. Now, attached to the church is a shrine dedicated to the thousands of anguished pilgrims from near and far, who came with their afflictions, were cured, and returned with heartfelt gratitude to place on the shrine their discarded aids; testament of the miracles performed by Our Lady of Ta Pinu.
Another little haven of idyllic charm is Xlendi Bay. Beautifully placed at the gateway to a long picturesque valley, hidden by two tall rocky promontories, it is a delight for swimming, diving and walking. I sometimes spend a week there in blissful hibernation, emerging revived, refreshed and rejoicing in the beauty of God’s creation.
Gozo’s capital is Victoria, renamed by the British during Queen Victoria’s jubilee in 1897, but still called its old Arab name, Rabat, by the islanders. It is a charming, friendly old town, self-sufficient in every way and huddled under the shadow of the ancient hilltop Citadel, historically famous and visible from every corner of the island.
I have spent many an enjoyable hour visiting the medieval fortress, towering high in the geographical centre of the island, admiring its magnificent cathedral, wandering around the museums, or just filling my soul with the enchanting panoramic views of the island from its ramparts.
On entering or leaving Gozo Island, I’m always exhilarated by the exquisite beauty and charm of Mgarr. This cosy little harbour is an artist’s dream, adorned with colourful ‘luzzu’ fishing boats and luxury visiting yachts, surrounded by heavenly hilltops and landscape, and soothingly lapped by the gentle blue Mediterranean.
Like most visitors I travel to and from Gozo by sea on the excellent car ferry run by the Gozzo Channel Company. It is a pleasant half-hour journey between Cirkewwa in Malta and Mgarr Harbour, and halfway across we pass the lonely island of Comino, now sparsely populated, with only one hotel, some campers, day-trippers and birdwatchers.
The Maltese Islands have become a spiritual retreat for me. The perfect climate, leisurely pace of life and charming people, never fail to warm my heart and inspire my soul. Far removed from the dizzy heights of some of Europe’s more frenzied resorts, the Maltese Islands are still one of the continents best kept secrets. A relaxed, friendly ambience, a fascinating history and culture, plus many other unique attributes, make the little islands precious jewels glittering in the Mediterranean.
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About the Author
Paddy Cummins. Irish author. Books: Three novels. Four collections of short stories and poems. Latest novel: ‘The Crying Sea’ Lives in Ireland in summer and in Malta during winter months.